the grandparents are here!

Jonah's Montana grandparents arrived yesterday. It's their first time in Prague. Jonah, of course, is in seventh heaven, and we're excited to show them around.

Here is a sampling of some of the things we have planned: a walk around the Prague Castle and a tour of the Czech Senate; a day trip to the 660-year-old Karlštejn castle; and a day trip to the UNESCO town of Český Krumlov, founded in the 13th century. Of course, there will be time with the extended family: my dad & wife & my maternal grandmother. Tim's parents were also invited to see the Fiddler On The Roof at the theater which my father runs.

Today we walked through Prague's Old Town, weaving in and out of groups of tourists and soaking in the sights and spring sunshine.







More pics coming soon.

will it happen again?

Today Jonah and I participated in a Yom HaShoah ceremony by reading some of the names of those who died in the Holocaust. Many of my relatives died in the Holocaust.

Every time I walk the streets of the oldest parts of Prague, I think about this:

At the outbreak of World War II, over 92,000 Jews lived in Prague, almost 20 percent of the city’s population. Prague was one of the largest Jewish communities in Europe. At least two-thirds of the Jewish population of Prague perished in the Holocaust (. . .) More than a quarter of a million Czechoslovak Jews were murdered in the Holocaust and more than 60 synagogues in the Czech lands were destroyed.

My father's parents, both Jewish, were concentration camp survivors. My mother's grandfather was also. He was a political prisoner. A communist. I think about how lucky I am to be alive and how lucky that my son is here.

Jonah was one of the only children at the commemoration in the big Square of Peace, or Náměstí Míru. Though I didn't plan to meet up with anyone there, after I read my page of names, my father walked up to me. He was there too, as was my maternal grandmother.

While I read the names of the victims into the microphone, I held Jonah, who surprised me by speaking softly and shyly into the microphone as I spoke. After each name, I said the year and camp of the person's death, followed by a word explaining the person's death - in most cases "zavražděna," or "murdered." I couldn't make out what Jonah was saying so quietly, but the word I heard him repeat over and over was "zavřena," which means closed.

I tried to explain to him the significance of this memorial, in a way that a three-year-old can grasp. He asked many questions like: "Why did they put them in prison?" and "Why didn't they like them?" and "Did I die in a war?" and "Did you die?"

Finally, after I satisfactorily explained the basic concept of what happened during the war, which he understood as he is already fascinated with weapons, fighting, and wrestling, he asked: "Will it happen again?"

I wish I could say that it won't and it isn't. I said that I will protect him and that I hope it will never happen again, knowing all too well that genocide, hatred and war are still rampant today.

I not only remembered the Jews who perished at the hand of the Nazis. There were also political prisoners, the Roma (Gypsies), gays and lesbians, and religious men and women.

Today, fascism still plagues the Czech Republic as well as many other parts of the world. Just last Sunday there was a neo-Nazi march in a city in the north of the Czech Republic, where I lived as a little girl. Around 300 fascists marched, flanked by 1250 police, most in riot gear.

Just two days ago, a molotov cocktail thrown through a window of a house in a small Czech town, severely burned a Roma family, including a two-year-old child. Such hate crimes are on the rise here and across Europe and the United States.

I want to do my part to curb hate and oppression. Somehow. I try, but I still feel compelled to try harder.

a weekend for kings

What a relaxing Easter weekend we had!

First, it was off to the 900-year-old castle Křivoklát, as I said in my last post.

The next day, we spent the afternoon with my grandmother. As usual, she treated us like kings, preparing a tasty meal for us and then accompanying us to one of the funnest playgrounds for kids. Jonah had a blast. The city is so much friendlier and cheerier filled with warmth and sunshine.

We finished off the holiday with some relaxation at my dad's in the countryside. We sat around and chatted while Jonah played with a neighbor kid, the same age as he: heaven for the parents who could actually carry on an uninterrupted adult conversation or just plain rest. Those who have only children will understand.

Czech Easter tradition dictates that girls and women get whipped with hand-braided whips made from willow switches. For that purpose, I brought a pillow to stuff into my pants to pad my behind: an Easter butt, as Jonah aptly dubbed it. My little gallant knight was ready to protect me. When I told him all about how the Czechs celebrate Easter, he decided -- instead of the predictable "oh great, time to whip the girls like there's no tomorrow" -- to be my protector and to use his weapons to ward off all the evil whipping maniacs. Fortunately I am so old that I only got whipped by my dad just so I don't think I've been forgotten: two light taps on my Easter tush. What a change from the time when I was younger when Easter was the most terrifyingly electrifying holiday. That and St. Nicholas Day when the devil comes to take bad children to hell. On his first Easter in the old country, Tim stayed out of this strange pagan ritual. No "when in Rome, do as the Romans do." Instead, he buried his nose in his New York Times bestseller.

After the whipping, we were served a great lunch by my step-mom, and then, along with another family, we accompanied my dad on his favorite activity: fishing. My dad picked a spot that had a huge, fat sign specifying that fishing is strictly forbidden in the lake. That fact obviously posed no obstacle. About a half hour into our fete, the actual owner of the lake showed up and set up shop across the water from us. He seemed not to care we were there at all. Perhaps he already knew my dad and had worked out some sort of a deal with him. No one knew for sure, but our fishing expedition continued unhindered.


The ladies just sat there, chiding the men who competed in how many carp each caught and released. The boys fished out slimy grass with sticks, calling the green stuff fish and taking turns frying it for each other. Fun times. Jonah got his first sunburn on his arms. Not to worry. It was very mild.

For more pics, go here and scroll down to the bottom of the page.

Though we didn't in any way celebrate Passover since my dad is one of those ultra assimilated types, I did get a box of matzah to take home. Jonah thought the biggest cracker he has ever eaten was so cool. I am glad, because I was already thinking of reviewing the video I watched last year about all the many things one can do with matzah:

castle time on Easter

Now that spring is here, the sun is shining, the birds chirping, and plants are coming to life again, my mood has lifted. The gray winter seemed so long, but now that it's warm enough just for a t-shirt and shorts outside, new possibilities lay ahead.

Today we ventured out to yet another castle; this one, one of the oldest, 900-years-old, to be exact. Křivoklát, like most others, hide among the hills until one approaches quite close. It's behind the last bend in the curvy road, just when you think you're lost, that a magnificent castle appears on the mountain ahead, close enough to be standing on the palm of your hand.

This weekend is the second most important holiday one after Christmas in the Czech calendar. Easter is about crafts and folk tradition, including some wacky pagan ones. We decided to visit Křivoklát, because they were hosting a traditional artisan market with musical and theatrical performances right in the courtyard.

A superb band named Krless, specializing in medieval vagrant music, played. They got the kids dancing right away. I was tempted too, but no other adults were even tapping their feet -- the typical Czechs they were --, so I decided to just stick to a few miniscule knee bends and claps here and there to punctuate the most exciting parts in the music. Jonah, on the other hand, pranced around the courtyard like he owned it, with his new sword and shield. Tim tied a handkerchief around Jonah's head to complete his pirate look. When I told Jonah that I really enjoyed his dancing, he that said he wasn't dancing, but driving a pirate truck. Right, I should have known.


The market was fun. Lots of neat pottery, glass, semi-precious stone, leather, iron, and woven products. The food carts were something: meat and more meat, of course, and a traditional, beautifully decorated smoked cheese. Pics here.

first joint poetry project

Here is the first poem Jonah and I have ever written together. This was on April 2.


Rhyme Time

There was once a duck,
rodie, pocky Mortimer Tuck.

Piddy goat, Five Dive Hive,
went along the road to a pond.

Donald Duck went to the water
and pooped in the water:
Popcorn!

All his clothes were torn.
Then what did he do?
Make a whistle on the poo.

By pape poh pope,
he ate a rope.

Yuck, said the duck.
Yuck, said the mommy.
You growed a poppy.

to protect and serve

Remember last fall I wrote about Jonah wanting to protect me by fighting the subway fair inspectors the day I forgot my pass? Today we were riding home from school when we saw the ticket checkers approaching. As I had predicted, they never checked me. I told Jonah that I thought they wouldn't because they never seem to check parents with kids. He asked why. I don't know, I said. I've just noticed that. To that he replied:

"Maybe they're scared of kids."

"Why?" I asked.

"Maybe they're scared of kids shooting."

Oh yes. That would be kids like him, protecting their mommies by shooting down the ticket inspectors. My little prince. Love him so.

Actually, even funnier than that, the other day I asked Tim to remind me of what the police motto was. He said: "To protect and serve," to which Jonah responded in the midst of playing policeman: "But I am not serve. I just protect." Too proud to serve, but never too proud to use his weapons!

my little pirate

Jonah's favorite make-belief characters of late have been:

policeman
pirate
knight
fireman
garbage man
skateboarder
wrestler



Thanks for the cross-Atlantic eye patch, Gma & Gpa!

to the castles we go

The winter here has felt so long! So much gray sky. We are ready for spring! The temperatures have finally climbed into the 50's and the birds have begun their sweet, sweet twittering. Just the other day I saw the first flower of the season blooming in the grass. This was a relief, since just a few days ago it was snowing here.

We have finally started to take more trips to see the sights around the country again. Recently we visited two castles, both from the 14th century: Karlštejn and Borotín, the second of which is a ruin, and a fascinating one to be sure. The ruin includes an underground section with vaulted Gothic ceilings.



Can't wait for more trips to come this season.

More pics here.

my ggma

My grandmother celebrated her 81st birthday this month. Yes, we were there: my little family, together with my US-based cousin, who is currently studying in Prague, and a good family friend.

Together, we treated my grandmother to a tasty multiple-course meal in an Italian restaurant where, as it turned out, many a famous person (such as Johnny Depp) has eaten.

My grandmother is pretty much the highlight of our stay in Prague. But that goes without saying. She is one fantastic lady!

veni, vidi....

Honestly, I'm glad February is behind us. As of last year, it is officially my least favorite month of the year. You can imagine why.

But, now on to bigger and better adventures. Yes. We just came back from a trip to London and Dublin. First time for all of us.

In London we met up with Tim's parents, who had just finished their dreamy, around-the-world trip. Oh the places they'd seen! Peru, Eastern Island, Australia, Papua New Guinea and more.... We got to hear the stories fresh and even meet some of their travel compatriots.

Our three days in London were a blast. Almost an arctic blast, that is, because I was freezing the whole time, whether outside or in our hotel room. But, that's beside the point.

We, of course, had the obligatory pub meal of fish and chips and a pint (all but Jonah and me who don't like the flavor of beer). We strolled around Hyde Park and Green Park and across the river Thames. We rode a London taxi, river boat, a double-decker and The Eye of London, all in the same day! We rode across the Tower Bridge, took pics with Big Ben, walked inside the Tower of London complex, watched the changing of the guards at Buckingham Palace... So much to see, so little time...




The Eye of London was really something. Space age entertainment, I call it.



The highlight of our time in London was meeting up with my college friend Toufique, who lives in London. He took us, via the tube, to his favorite neighborhood: a crossroads between an artsy, alternative scene with artisan markets and bars, frequented by tattooed, punk and hipster crowds and a Bengali neighborhood full of restaurants, mosques, and other businesses catering (not only) to South Asian clientele. Thanks to Toufique, we got to dine in a little off-the-beaten-path Bengali restaurant. Now that was fun! We finished off our time together with a cup of hot alcoholic cider. Yum! I was sad to say goodbye.



Then on to Dublin. To my dismay, Dublin was even colder than London. Needless to say, I underdressed. Silly me.

In Dublin, we had the kindest hosts one could imagine. Stephen, a native Dubliner, cooked up a storm and shared lots of historical and political tidbits about Ireland. Ann, who was not only taking care of us but also of her one-year-old daughter was patient enough to not kick us to the curb once I started feeling lightheaded thanks to some bug I caught on our trip. In between the feasting and talking and walking around Dublin, I kept asking to be excused to lay down... Pretty soon I felt so out of it that I ceased to be fun around and forgot to even take pictures. Too bad... Jonah had fun with little baby Eilis though. She adored him and tried imitating everything he did.




The last evening another friend I'd met in Portland, Tara, and her husband came over for dinner. That was fun as well.

My favorite thing in Dublin was the National Museum, which houses artifacts from as long as the Stone Age. There we saw a replica of an ancient stone burial structure, dating from about 3700-2500 BC. We also perused the remnants of Iron Age "bog bodies," bodies, whose sacrifice was part of king inauguration rituals thousands of years ago, preserved in Irish bogs. Creepy and immensely fascinating.

I put pics of our trip here. Sorry, not many from Ireland.

remembering Amalia

A candle for Amalia on her would-be first birthday at my grandmother's on February 2:



And the flowers my grandmother Anna gave me on that day:



And a video I made as I set out to pay homage to my deceased grandmother and daughter at the New Jewish Cemetery on the first anniversary of Amalia's death. It was at that cemetery that I first encountered death after my grandmother Bedřiška died when I was ten. The video somehow illustrates a bit about Amalia's journey to me: the journey through the unknown towards a light, mom's (my) hand opening the door, being out in the world for just a moment, and, as the film ends, even -- unintentionally yet fittingly -- the funeral service office across the street called Tranquility...

the gift that keeps on giving: Playmobil's Security Check Point

I just came across an internet posting about the Playmobil's Security Check Point. The toy is clearly something I do not plan to purchase for my child, but just reading the product reviews makes my belly ache.

Just to whet your appetite, here is a customer review by "loosenut" entitled "Great lesson for the kids!"

I was a little disappointed when I first bought this item, because the functionality is limited. My 5 year old son pointed out that the passenger's shoes cannot be removed. Then, we placed a deadly fingernail file underneath the passenger's scarf, and neither the detector doorway nor the security wand picked it up. My son said "that's the worst security ever!" But it turned out to be okay, because when the passenger got on the Playmobil B757 and tried to hijack it, she was mobbed by a couple of other heroic passengers, who only sustained minor injuries in the scuffle, which were treated at the Playmobil Hospital.

The best thing about this product is that it teaches kids about the realities of living in a high-surveillence society. My son said he wants the Playmobil Neighborhood Surveillence System set for Christmas. I've heard that the CC TV cameras on that thing are pretty worthless in terms of quality and motion detection, so I think I'll get him the Playmobil Abu-Gharib Interogation Set instead (it comes with a cute little memo from George Bush).

Take a look yourself at this mini revolt on the internet. The best laugh I've had in along time.

Berlin with babi

This year for Christmas I got my babi, or grandma, a concert ticket to see her favorite pianist, Murray Perahia. He was on tour and the closest place he was performing was Berlin. So to the ticket I added two nights in a hotel in Berlin.

We took the train there last week. It was a trip to remember. I wasn't that excited about Berlin, but realized as soon as we got there, that it's undoubtedly an interesting and vibrant place to visit.

The highlights: impressive modern architecture using lots and lots of glass in pleasing ways; historical places like the remnants of the Berlin wall, the bits of old architecture that withstood the bombings during the war, and the most stirring: the Holocaust memorial. We actually got to Berlin on International Holocaust Commemoration Day.

The pianist was fabulous. A huge, arena-like concert hall sold-out and bursting in the seams. Mozart, Schubert, Brahms, Beetoven. My grandmother was beside herself. She is quite the music critic too. I am not well-versed in classical music, but I was impressed as well.

Here are some pics from our trip. More here.





And a video of the Holocaust memorial experience:

Jonah watches "the Prez"

On the day of Barack Obama's inauguration, we streamed the ceremony live over the internet while eating dinner. It was, after all, 6 pm in Prague. As I watched, ate, and fed Jonah, I took notes of Jonah's commentary as well. Here is a list of his quotes from the occasion:

• Obama? Obama? Is that Obama coming?
• Does she not have a black face?

(To which I responded that Michele Obama's skin is dark and that some people have brown skin, some light, some dark skin just like one of his teachers at Czech preschool. Jonah nodded and then went on with his commentary)

• Why is there always police? Why are they protecting?
• Why did she say liberty? (about Feinstein's speech)
• What is it liberty?
• Why can't he see? Is he closing his eyes? Why do they close their eyes? - (about Rev. Warren)
• Why is there a flag?
• Why is she there? (about Aretha Franklin)
• Who's that boy? Who's Robert Bennet?
• Why do they shoot? (about the cannons)
• Why would they shoot people?
• Why don't they shoot people?
• Mom, what do they shoot?
• What do they shoot in the air?
• Why did you say boo? (to thanking bush for service)
• You don't have a gun?
• I have a gun.
• It's a shooting gun for school: shoot, shoot, shoot!
• Action, Tereza! (random Obama word he repeated)
• Watchful eye. (random Obama expression he caught)
• Why did he say tanks?
• Are those microphones?
• Why do they need guns?

As you can see, he was mostly fascinated with machines, cannons and the police, I guess, well, because life for him now is all about: "Action, Tereza, action!"

a quick January rundown

I've been a bit behind on this blog. So here is a quick rundown of the most exciting moments of last two weeks. The holidays seemed to drag on for a very loooooong time. The highlight were our times with family. Here is Jonah with his great-grandmother:


I so enjoyed the visit that three of my college classmates paid us on New Year's. Fun times, reminiscing while drinking bad wine and powerful plum brandy, which I shall from now on call The Remedy Of My People. My friend actually purchased one of the most awe-inspiring objects, truly an item worthy of idol worship: a plum brandy decanter in the shape of an old-fashioned machine gun with a set of shot glasses. Here is Jonah admiring the beauty with which we thoroughly familiarized ourselves while kicking off the New Year with a bang:



Finally, after playing a two-week long viral infection relay over the holidays, we got outside to do a little sledding in the chilly winter weather near my dad's house out in the country. All the lakes and ponds were frozen over with thick ice. People cleared the snow and ice skated and "hokeyed" like there was no tomorrow. We stuck to sledding, which was just our speed:


Another favorite activity was an impromptu tour of a firehouse which my dad finagled one afternoon after thinking of it during lunch. Oh, let's walk over to the firehouse down the street and try our luck, he said. Though he was more excited about the trucks and equipment than his grandson, his junior by fifty-five years, the place did make an impression on Jonah too:


More pics here.

another blog

I have started blogging about Czech politics on another blog, if you are interested. Today's topic is the Czechs assuming the rotating European Union presidency for the next six months. You can read my post here.

when my sister was here

Here is Jonah with my dad, his wife and my sister in November:

a visit to babi's

Jonah and his great-grandmother:

Part I:


Part II:

the games we play

Lately, with winter vacation, a round of colds, forbidding weather and all, we've spent a whole lot of time inside, cooped up in our third-story apartment. And boy, does Jonah need a playmate!

Tim and I, the dutiful parents we are, have been taking turns indulging our son who would otherwise turn into a category 5 tropical storm.

Here are the roleplays Jonah has involved us in lately, listed for memory's sake:

• pirates and monsters
• fire boy and fire girl
• Eyeore and Christopher Robin
• cashier and shopper (usually the shopper walks away with free merchandise AND money from the cashier to boot)
• teacher and preschooler
• daddy/mommy and child
• cook and restaurant guest
• doctor (sometimes rather medieval in his style; fond of bloodletting, for instance) and broken leg person
• person who is afraid of bad guys and a guy who shines his flashlight at and hits the bad guys with swords (spoons, actually) and, in the end, saves the person who is afraid

the birds and the bees

I had no idea it would come so soon. Just the other day Jonah asked me how babies get inside moms' bellies; how babies are made. He didn't want just a simple explanation, trust me. I tried many versions, all true, but "clean." He kept asking for a more in-depth explanation until I had to get into the biology of it. I kept it simple, but finally, as if I at last gave him the answer he was looking for, he was satisfied enough to move onto the next activity. His tool bench, was it?

Days later I read what good old Dr. Spock et al have to say about preschoolers asking about where babies come from. I am proud to say that I think Dr. Spock would have approved of how I handled the situation.

I have vowed to myself that I will be better than my parents about teaching my child about sex. My parents never talked about sex, even when I tried to initiate the conversation as a child. They just let me stew in my own embarassment once I realized sex was apparently something embarassing to talk about. I learned everything I've ever wanted to know about sex from Woody Allen. Just kidding. It was from my peers in the neighborhood and in grammar school - not a very reliable source, to say the least.

Though Jonah has lately been curious about body parts, shapes, skin color, etc., I wouldn't have guessed "the birds and the bees" talk would come so early. Geez Louise.